Case 10 cookbooks with recipes including sugar

Early Works Showing Sugar Coming into Wide Use

 

There were recipes for sweets in cookbooks before this, and earlier books on sweets (such as Fran├žois Massialot's Court and Country Cook of 1702, which included a translation of his Nouvelle instruction pour les confitures from 1692), but they were for use in great households. These British and American works reflect sugar's greater accessibility as a commodity in the reach of the middle class, and the burgeoning popularity of sweets of all kinds.

Hannah Glasse, Maria Wilson The Complete Confectioner; or, Housekeeper's Guide: to a Simple and Speedy Method of Understanding the Whole Art of Confectionary ... 1800

This work is based on The Complete Confectioner OR, THE Whole Art of Confectionary Made Plain and Easy by Hannah Glasse, author of the vastly popular Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which the Clements holds in three editions. Her original Complete Confectioner was first published c. 1760. This edition, "a compilation...made from Mrs. Glass, and every other work on the subject" by Maria Wilson, is believed to have been first published in 1799 in ten weekly parts.

 

This work is in the long tradition of housewives' books on distilling, preserving, brewing, and other household arts. What sets it apart is the sheer number and variety of recipes based on sugar, including hard candies, compotes, jellies, jams, conserves, syrups, candied fruit, cakes large and small, creams, wafers, and ices. eighteen of twenty five chapters depend on sugar, and sugar has found its way into many of the preparations in the chapters on cordials, wines, pickling, and so on.

Frederick Nutt The Complete Confectioner : or, The Whole Art of Confectionary Made Easy ... in 250 Cheap and Fashionable receipts. The Result of Many Years Experience with the Celebrated Negri and Witten 1807

From the Personal Collection of Jan and Dan Longone

This book, written by a professional confectioner, is entirely made up of recipes dependent on sugar. The recipes (some of which would be quite unfamiliar to the modern palate, such as Parmesan cheese ice cream) show just how involved and laborious the making of sweetmeats was at the turn of the nineteenth century. It was originally printed in London in 1789 as The Complete Confectioner: or, The Whole Art of Confectionary: Forming a Ready Assistant to all Genteel Families; Giving Them a Perfect Knowledge of Confectionary. This edition was printed in New York in 1807. The author points proudly to his apprenticeship with Domenico Negri, the reigning London confectioner of his time, who traded from The Pot and Pineapple in Berkeley Square beginning in 1760.

The Young Woman's Companion, or, Frugal Housewife : Containing the Most Approved Methods of Pickling, Preserving, Potting, Collaring, Confectionary 1811

The cookery section of this work contains 32 chapters, of which fully a third, 11 chapters, involve the making of sugar-sweetened foods: creams and jams, jellies and syllabubs, dried and candied fruit, tarts and puffs, cheesecakes and custards, cakes and biscuits, and confectionery ornaments such as artificial fruits made of jelly and a desert island of pastry and hard sugar candy.

Eliza Leslie Seventy-five Receipts for Pastry, Cakes, and Sweetmeats by a Lady of Philadelphia.1828

Eliza Leslie was a popular nineteenth century author of fiction, works on etiquette, and cookbooks. Although her greatest success in the literature of cooking was the immensely popular Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches (1837) it was this book on pastry that made her reputation. It sold widely, going through more than 20 editions in the nineteenth century. The recipes are unattributed, but we know from what she wrote elsewhere that they are taken from the first American cooking school, Mrs. Goodfellow's school in Philadelphia, where Leslie was a student.

 

"The receipts in this little book are, in every sense of the word, American; but the writer flatters herself that (if exactly followed) the articles produced from them will not be found inferior to any of a similar description made in the European manner."