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Pair 3: The Fabric of History

Pair 3: The Fabric of History

When it comes to “touching history,” 101 Treasures saw a truly singular opportunity in the Clements copy of A Catalogue of the Different Specimens of Cloth Collected in the Three Voyages of Captain Cook (1787), first assembled by London merchant Alexander Shaw and later supplemented by naturalist Thomas Pennant. The volume contains 92 specimens of Polynesian tapa cloth, a fabric made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree and brought back in rolls on Captain Cook’s ships on his third exploration voyage (the ships arrived back in Britain in the fall of 1780, but without James Cook, who was killed in Hawaii in February 1779).. The Clements copy is the largest known compilation of these textile specimens, and unique in that it is augmented by Pennant’s manuscript interviews with several of Cook’s sailors. Interleaved among the samples are descriptions of where, when, and by whom each sample was acquired, how the fabric was used, and ethnological observations of the Polynesian natives who had handcrafted it. Together, the vivid textiles and Pennant’s carefully transcribed interviews provide both tactile and textual evidence of cultural memory.

Alexander Shaw, A catalogue of the different specimens of cloth collected in the three voyages of Captain Cook, to the Southern Hemisphere. [London] : Now properly arrainged and printed for Alexander Shaw, No. 379, Strand, London, 1787.
Fabric samples circulated around the globe not only in swatch books, but as part of the daily activities conducted by merchants, wholesale retailers, and local artisans. An 1870 letter from Keokuk, Iowa shop owner G.A. Matthewson requests woolen merchants in Chicago to ship his order of dress and dry goods to Canadian dry goods importer Chapman & Co. Matthewson includes an inventory of the shipment, consisting of various cloths, hose, handkerchiefs, skirts, mittens, shawls, towels, doylies, hoodies, and more. Pinned beside some of the cloth entries are over 20 example swatches of fabric, materializing the appearance and texture of the textile in question and enabling multisensory access to social, economic, and cultural histories of Midwestern trade. We often do not think of samples like this as carrying the same amount of ethnographic information as do the samples of tapa cloth shown here, but scholars from other countries (or other centuries) may draw different conclusions from them.
A. Matthewson ALS to Bowen Hunt & Winslow, October 24, 1870; Keokuk, [Iowa]